By Audrey Anderson
Hometown Weekly Reporter
The Needham Free Public Library (NFPL) hosted Karen Antonowicz of Spirits of Fashion, who presented a program on “Pride & Prejudice of Fashion: The Jane Austen Era.” Jane Austen lovers came out in force to learn about fashion in the Empire period of 1804-1815 and see examples of clothing worn by women and men during that period.
During the French Revolution, big, wide dresses adorned with velvet and lace were in fashion, while men wore high heels and hose. In the Empire period, fashion became simpler. Women wore column dresses that emphasized an unbroken long line from top to bottom. Their corsets were not tight to define a waist, but straight to support this statuesque line. They wore flat shoes and dancing slippers. They held their belongings in reticules, which are fabric bags tied at the top.
Outside, women wore cashmere shawls, high empire-waisted pelisse coats, or short, cropped wool jackets, called Spensers, for the author who burned his coattails in a fireplace, along with muffs. To illustrate a typical outfit, Antonowicz wore a gown with a Spenser over it, as well as a bonnet with a long rim.
Men in the Empire period wore tight-fitting pantaloons or long pants with stirrups that fit under their boots or under their feet. Their ensemble also included statuesque waistcoats and full shirts, both with high, standing collars, and a shorter, plainer outer coat. Cravats were worn at the neckline. On their feet they wore boots with tassels, Wellingtons, or top boots (with a different color at the top). Gaiters (spats) were worn to protect pant legs and shoes.
Outside, men wore top or bicorner hats, capes, morning coats, or great coats with multiple decorative layers at the shoulders.
Ankonowicz illustrated her explanations of Empire Period style by showing slides featuring various elements of dress and clips from several movies made from Jane Austen novels, such as “Pride and Predjudice,” “Emma,” “Sense and Sensibility,” and “Mansfield Park.” While the audience swooned, Ankonowicz pointed out the elements of dress that had been discussed.
Fittingly, the Masterpiece series “Miss Austen” started on PBS on the same night as Ankonowicz’ presentation. The audience left prepared to watch the show with an informed eye for Empire period fashions.
